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Focus On: Vintage Bling

Von , 11. August 2016

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Kunstgeschichte am Handgelenk – das New Yorker Label Erica Weiner erzählt die Historie des Schmuckhandwerks auf schönste Weise

Alles begann im Jahr 2005 mit zwei Freundinnen in New York, die ihre Jobs in der Kunst-, Mode– und Theaterwelt schmissen, um gemeinsam außergewöhnliche Schmuckstücke zu designen – aus verschiedenen Vintage-Elementen kreierte Einzelstücke. Heute betreiben Erica Weiner und Lindsay Salmon einen Onlineshop und zwei kleine Stores in Brooklyn und Downtown Manhatten, in denen sie sowohl ihren eigenen Schmuck als auch sorgfältig ausgewählte Antik-Schätze verkaufen. Für die Jagd nach den schönsten, seltsamsten, esoterischsten und seltensten viktorianischen oder Art Deco Relikten bereisen sie die ganze Welt. Ihre Leidenschaft: Der einzigartigen Geschichte jedes einzelnen ihrer wertvollen Fundstücke auf die Schliche zu kommen. Dafür bedienen sie sich der klassischen Edelsteinkunde, Kunstgeschichte und Anthropologie.

Von Vintage-inspiriert bis wirklich antik – das sind unsere liebsten Modelle aus dem Shop:

Viktorianischer Ring ADORE mit Perlen, ca. 536 Euro

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“Acrostic rings were beloved by the sentimental Victorians. The style first appeared in the early 19th century, and remained popular throughout the Civil War. Using precious gems, jewelers concocted all kinds of phrases, including ones with political messages (REPEAL) and French-made rings that read SOUVENIR. With an amethyst, diamond, opal, ruby, and an emerald, this 15k yellow gold ring spells ADORE. The gems are bead-set over a row of lustrous seed pearls.”

Kette mit Würfelspiel, ca. 313 Euro

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“This mid-century novelty pendant is a game enthusiast’s delight. It’s rectangular golden frame contains a pair of white and orange celluloid dice. The case has a hinged base which locks securely in place when closed, when open the dice are easily removed for a quick game of whatever. Always be ready. Hallmarked for London 1961.”

Ring Man in the Moon, ca. 1.252 Euro

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“At the turn of the twentieth century, a surge of lunar and mystical interest galvanized into a brief trend of “man in the moon” themed jewelry. This Edwardian fad usually included a moonstone carved into the shape of a face and diamonds to evoke twinkling stars. Our plaintive moonman is encircled with a diamond-encrusted crescent moon.”

Ohrringe mit Skarabäus und Perlen, ca. 760 Euro

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“The Victorians were great fans of novelty jewelry. Ornaments of curiosity were designed with consideration for beauty and color, but also with the intent to amuse and delight the wearer. Such eccentric styles include mounted hummingbird heads, tiny golden renderings of mice, and bejeweled flies, just to name a few. These c. 1880 English earrings would have been classed as “Cleopatra ornaments”, though they bear little relation to the jewels of Ancient Egypt, and in fact, the beetles were most likely imported from South America. These iridescent insects are mounted in 12k yellow gold with seed pearls and chased leaf elements.”

Viktorianischer Armreif mit Halbmond und Stern, ca. 872 Euro

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“Celestial-themed jewelry was quite popular in the mid to late Victorian era, and the pairing of a crescent moon and star was considered especially chic. This lightweight 15k yellow gold bracelet has a hollow construction, the face of the bangle is affixed with a seed pearl-studded moon and star. The bracelet is hinged at one side with a secure clasp at the other, and has retained its original safety chain. The inner circumference is 6″ and will accommodate a small to medium-sized woman’s wrist.”

Siegelring Native American, ca. 671 Euro

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„This distinctive and ever-so-slightly odd signet ring dates to the 1920s or ’30s. The navette-shaped head of the ring features the stylized likeness of a Native American chief rendered in colorful champlevé enamel. “Why?” you might ask. We really don’t know the story behind why this unusual piece was made, but it is undeniably cool.“

Kette Evil Eye, ca. 129 Euro

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“Since at least ancient Roman times, people have believed that jealousy can be transmitted as a curse. The “evil eye” could actually be poisonous, and as protection, talismans were developed to reflect the harmful gaze back toward the spell-caster. They appear in slightly different forms in many cultures; blue glass discs like this one (known as “nazars”) appear throughout the Arab world. Each of our nazars, handmade in Turkey, have been set into a pendant based on an exquisite gold antique malochhio, the Italian version of the evil eye amulet.” 

Viktorianischer Ring mit Smaragden, ca. 2684 Euro

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“Emerald, king of the beryl family, has been regarded as a mystical stone since antiquity. According to legend, one could see into the future by placing an emerald under the tongue. Worn on the person, it could protect against evil spells and cure diseases. Magical and curative properties aside, it has been prized for millennia for it’s incomparable verdant color. Pliny the Elder put it best when he wrote of the emerald, “Nothing greens greener.” This c. 1830 half eternity ring is crafted in buttery 15k gold and features 9 bright table cut emeralds in crimped collets with open backs.”

Ring I CLING TO THEE, ca. 600 Euro

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“This sweet and ultra sentimental ring dates to the late 1800s. Made in 9k rose gold, the belled face of the ring reads “I cling to thee”. The tender words are framed in lovely foliate elements with star details at the shoulders.”

Ketten Akrostichon, je ab ca. 268 Euro

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“Acrostic” jewelry first appeared in the early 1800s as a way to convey secret messages through jewelry. Each letter in the alphabet was assigned to a different precious stone, and the so-called “language of gems” emerged. Jeweler Jean-Baptiste Mellerio famously made a “J’adore” ring for Marie Antoinette, and Napolean commissioned acrostic pieces for his beloved Josephine.”